The vineyards of Markopoulo, Spata and Koropi — eleven cellars between the airport and the south coast.
The Mesogeia (literally ‘the middle land’) is the agricultural plain east of Hymettus and west of the airport — eight hundred square kilometres of vineyard, olive grove and pine, with eleven working wineries and a tradition of wine-making going back to the 5th century BC.
The grape that built the region is Savatiano — a white indigenous variety that produces the classic retsina (the pine-resined wine of Greece), as well as more serious dry whites in the new style. The other indigenous white is Malagouzia (revived from near extinction by the Domaine Karipidis), and the international varieties (Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay) are widely planted. The region’s standard-bearer is Domaine Papagiannakos — a 100-year-old family estate at Markopoulo with a beautiful new bioclimatic winery designed by architect Christos Papoulias and a tasting room open by appointment. Other essentials: Mylonas Winery (the new-generation Savatiano), Markou Vineyards (the deep retsina tradition), Domaine Vassiliou (the longest history). All are within twenty minutes of each other; three is the right number for a day; one taxi-driver-with-a-list-of-cellars makes the day work.
A Mesogeia day.
Half-hour east of central Athens via the Attiki Odos motorway.
Hour-long tour and tasting; the Papoulias building, six wines, a small plate; €25.
Pre-booked terrace table; meat-grill, country wine, slow service. €25 per head.
Barrel-tour and tasting; five wines; €20.
Traditional cellar visit and the deep retsina tradition; tasting; €15.
Forty-minute drive back, with a fifteen-minute stop at Kaisariani Monastery if light allows. Dinner in Pangrati.
Within twenty minutes.
Fifteen minutes' drive east — the natural pre- or post-flight Mesogeia visit.
Half-hour drive south — the temple. Detail on the Sounion page.
Twenty minutes' drive south — the fish tavernas and the lagoon.
Half-hour drive north — the battlefield and the lake.
Half-hour drive north-west — the monastery and quarries.
Tell us a little about the trip you want — pace, who's coming, how you'd like to spend your mornings. We'll build the days.
