The former summer estate of the Greek royal family on the southern slope of Parnitha — pine woods, riding stables, the chapel, the graves.
Tatoi is the 47-square-kilometre former summer estate of the Greek royal family on the southern slope of Mt. Parnitha — bought by King George I in 1872, expropriated by the state in 2003, opened gradually to the public since 2010.
The estate is in transition — half forgotten manor (the main palace, locked, slowly decaying behind a fence), half public park. The pine and fir woods are open to walk and cycle; the chapel of the Resurrection is open daily and contains the graves of every Greek monarch since 1913 (King George I, Queen Olga, King Constantine I, the others); the original royal stables are now a working riding club (€60 a one-hour lesson). The adjoining village of Varybobi is the wealthy country-Athens equivalent of Hampstead — large houses set in pine, two excellent restaurants (Mavros for grilled meat, Mountain View for the long Sunday lunch), and a small lake. The total package — half hour from central Athens, three hours of forest walking and a long Sunday lunch — is the closest thing to a country weekend the city offers.
A Tatoi Sunday.
Half-hour north of central Athens; park at the main estate car park near the chapel.
Forty-minute pine-shaded path; the marble graves; the small museum room; a quiet hour.
An hour of slow walking through the pines; bring binoculars; the air is the point.
Pre-booked terrace table; lamb chops, country sausage, village wine; three hours; €40 per head.
Small lakeside café; the slow afternoon; back in the city by 18:30.
Within twenty minutes.
Twenty minutes' drive north — the high mountain. Detail on the Parnitha page.
Twenty minutes' drive east — the working Byzantine monastery.
Half-hour drive east — the battlefield and the lake.
The wealthy country-Athens village adjacent to the estate.
Twenty kilometres south, half-hour by car off-peak.
Tell us a little about the trip you want — pace, who's coming, how you'd like to spend your mornings. We'll build the days.