A working fishing harbour on the way to Sounion — not pretty, very real. Three of the best fish tavernas in Attica are here.
Palaia Fokaia is the small working harbour town five kilometres north of Cape Sounion — a 1922 settlement of refugees from Phokaia in Asia Minor (the name means ‘Old Phokaia’), still a working fishing fleet of about thirty small boats.
The town itself is unspectacular — flat-roofed concrete houses, a long main street that runs parallel to the harbour, a few seasonal hotels on the seafront. The point is the fishing fleet, the morning auction (06:30 daily, no public access but the smell carries), and the three excellent fish tavernas around the harbour. Akrogiali (a different one to the Anavyssos branch) on the south side, Yiannakos on the harbour itself, Anatoli at the north end. All three serve whatever was caught that morning by the kilo, with a price-list that changes daily. Anatoli is the best for the fish-soup (kakavia) — the Greek bouillabaisse, made differently in every fishing village; Palaia Fokaia’s version is the spicy tomato-and-saffron variant. The drive from Athens (one hour via the highway, ninety minutes via the coast) makes this a pre- or post-Sounion stop, never a destination on its own.
A Palaia Fokaia long lunch.
One hour via the highway, or ninety minutes via the coastal road; park at the harbour.
A glass of ouzo at the harbour kafenio; the small fishing boats moored; the day quiet.
Pre-booked terrace table; the kakavia; sides of fried calamari and Greek salad; three hours; €40 per head.
Five minutes' drive; arrive at the temple with ninety minutes of light.
The last warm hour on the Pentelic marble; the closing image of the day.
Hour ten via the highway.
Within ten minutes by car.
Five minutes' drive south — the Temple of Poseidon. Detail on the Sounion page.
Ten minutes' drive north — Akrogiali and the lagoon. Detail on the Lagonisi page.
Three minutes' drive south — the resort hotel near the temple.
Twenty minutes' drive east — the larger working port and ferry harbour for the Cyclades.
Three minutes' drive south — the small adjacent fishing-village pair, a quieter alternative.
Tell us a little about the trip you want — pace, who's coming, how you'd like to spend your mornings. We'll build the days.
