The Mani is the middle finger of the Peloponnese — three peninsulas that end in the Mediterranean, with the Taygetos mountains running down the spine.
For most of the 20th century the Mani was cut off from the rest of Greece. Patrick Leigh Fermor arrived here on foot in 1951 and found tower houses, blood feuds and a people who called themselves descendants of the Spartans. Ride through today and the tower houses are still here — some restored as guesthouses, most still weathering — but the roads are empty, the coves are yours, and dinner is whatever the family upstairs is cooking tonight.
Over six days you roll south from Kalamata into the outer Mani, descend the Viros gorge into Kardamyli, and trace the west coast through Stoupa and Oitylo to the slate-roofed capital of Areopoli. Daily distances are moderate — 35 to 60 km, with one bigger day over the saddle at Itilos — and the support van is always in earshot if the climbs bite.